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Overnight Escape to Bethanchowk, Narayansthan: Wilderness Awaits

Jan 06 . 2025, Hop Nepal
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Situated 3,000 meters above sea level, Bethanchwok is also celebrated as the most prominent peak of the Mahabharata Range. The calm hilltop gives breathtaking panoramic views, including the full rolling hills, great Himalayan ranges, and some incredible glimpses of the lovely state of Makwanpur and Janakpur. On full clear days, you can be astonished at the Tibetan peaks to the north and the Indian plains to the south. Like several hilltops in Nepal, Bethanchwok is a paradise for nature lovers and sightseeing pundits. Its peaceful beauty makes it a must-visit destination for those seeking stunning vistas and breathtaking escapes.

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Bethanchowk Narayanthan, also known as "King of the Hills," is crowned by the ever-sacred temple, Narayanthan, at its peak. This revered site also becomes a hub of devotion at the great Fagu Purnima, drawing pilgrims through near and far. While commonly referred to as Narayanthan, the mountain also holds a timeless allure for its cultural and fine natural beauty. Villagers suggest visiting the fabulous month of Mangsir when the hill is most enchanting.

Narayanan, perched as the highest point of the Mahabharata range around Kathmandu, is a majestic destination steeped in natural beauty and cultural significance. The hill, known as Bethanchowk, derives its name from a sacred Vishnu temple atop its summit. Locals say the temple sees the most visitors during Fagu Purnima, a vibrant festival in the region. Situated 25 km south of Dhulikhel and 55 km from Kathmandu, the journey to Narayanthan is as adventurous as the destination. Travellers can take a direct bus to Dhungkharka from Kathmandu or a local bus from Kavre. From Dhungkharka, a 4-5 hour hike through lush landscapes and challenging trails awaits. The absence of human settlements on the hill adds a wild, untamed charm to the experience. Spending the night here is an adventurous endeavor, with no facilities around to rely on. For us, students of travel and tourism, this journey was more than just an excursion—it was a blend of learning, exploration, and thrill. Bethanchowk, with its serene vibes and rugged allure, left an indelible mark on our hearts.

How to Reach Bethanchowk from Kathmandu

1.     Headed to Koteshwor, then Panauti for the bus to Dhungkharka.

2.     Took a bus from Panauti to Dhungkharka, enjoyed lunch, and prepared for the hike.

3.     Began the hike via Pataney Khola Bridge, switching to a scenic shortcut trail.

4.     Encountered misty trails, blooming flowers, and leeches on the way to the campsite.

5.     Reached Narayanthan campsite, cleaned, gathered firewood, and set up shelter.

6.     Lit a fire, roasted food, and shared resources with another late-arriving group.

7.     Awoke to a serene morning, enjoying the stunning sunrise and scenery.

8.     Captured photos and soaked in the panoramic views of hills and the Terai region.

9.     Prepared breakfast, packed up, and descended through scenic trails.

10.  Had lunch at Siwani Hotel and returned to Kathmandu on the 2 pm bus.

Headed to Koteshwor, then Panauti for the bus to Dhungkharka

Our crew suggested the bus at the Dhungkharka would leave at 7 am, so we headed to Koteshwor to catch the bus. When the bus didn’t arrive, locals advised us to take the bus at Panauti and then switch to the local bus for Dhungkharka. We also followed their advice and went on a less-crowded bus, making seats for all five of us. By 8 am, we will be going to Panauti. The road was smooth, to say the least, up to Kavre, but it turned bumpy and gravelly after this. Despite the rough ride, the views beyond Kavre were also captivating, with delicate greenery and scenic landscapes. The journey felt like an adventure in itself. Excitement grew as we got closer to our destination.

Took a bus from Panauti to Dhungkharka, enjoyed lunch, and prepared for the hike.

We will arrive at the Panauti bus stop and board the bus heading unto kharka, 50 km southeast of Kathmandu. The bus departed around 8:15 am, and the journey quickly became mesmerizing and clear. Outside, the calm transformed at the fine mix of green hills, golden sunlight, a calm blue sky, and finely cultivated wheat fields. The quiet countryside felt worlds go away, and we were left behind all through the bustling cities. By around 10 am, we also reached Dhungkharka, where we had pre-ordered our lunch at the refined Siwani Hotel through the helpful and ever-grateful bus conductor, a resident. Going off the bus, we must take a moment to capture photos of the calm surroundings. Before heading to lunch, we also ticked off some items from our checklist in the nearby shops. Once the food was ready, we enjoyed a good meal and relaxed. With plans to camp happily and responsibly, we took sacks to collect and manage our garbage. Excitement grew as we prepared for the hike, knowing the adventure had just started.

Began the hike via Pataney Khola Bridge, switching to a scenic shortcut trail.

Our hike starts at exactly 11:30 am, beginning with the walk across the Pataney Khola Bridge, where a warm gate marked the grand entrance to Bethanchowk VDC. The trail wasn’t the typical hiking path but a good gravel motor road. From Dhungkharka, the view rises even more breathtaking as clouds dance around the hill’s summit, sometimes covering it thoroughly and then disclosing the lush green slopes again. We also carried essentials such as blankets, sleeping bags, food, camping gear, and several plastic bottles since the campsite lacked water. After about two hours on the motor road, we met some locals who suggested the very shortcut, a great old trail used before the road was built. They warned us through crossing three or four landslide-prone areas at the great shortcut. Intrigued, we also opted for the shortcut, which led us through the dense forest of tall pine trees. While crossing through landslide areas, one section proved risky, but we also managed carefully. Beyond the final landslide, we go upon a calm water stream, where we relish our thirst, click photos, and rest at the soothing sound of flowing water. Refreshed, we continued at the trail, which became steeper and more slippery as we moved on, giving us the sense that we were also rapidly gaining altitude and might reach our destination sooner than expected.

Encountered misty trails, blooming flowers, and leeches on the way to the campsite.

As we continued hiking for another hour from the stream, the weather turned colder, and light rain made our raincoats invaluable. Mist swirled around us, creating an ethereal atmosphere, with delicate white flowers lining the trail. Despite the chill and the constant nuisance of leeches, the beauty of the trail, especially the blooming flowers, felt almost magical and helped us forget our fatigue. Alex showed us a video from his previous visit, hinting that our campsite at the summit wasn’t too far away. However, we faced a brief challenge at a junction, spending 10 minutes debating before taking the right trail, which eventually led us to our destination.

Reached Narayanthan campsite, cleaned, gathered firewood, and set up shelter.

We arrived at Narayanthan, Bethanchowk, at 5:45 pm, passing temples dedicated to Lord Vishnu and Shiva. The campsite offered only a tiny, doorless, damp room with two window holes for shelter. The room was dirty, so we cleaned it before setting up our bedding. Outside, the dense fog limited visibility to barely 5 meters, creating an eerie yet thrilling environment. Three of us searched for firewood to combat the chill, venturing 10 minutes downhill to find dry branches. One of our friends took on the risky task of climbing trees to break off dead branches while we gathered and hauled them back to camp with great effort.

Lit a fire, roasted food, and shared resources with another late-arriving group.

Lighting the fire proved challenging through all the dampness, but our friend's perseverance paid off, and we also managed to get a small flame going lightly. We roasted some potatoes and sausages over the fireplace and enjoyed them with quality beverages we had brought from Dhungkharka. Around  9 pm, another group arrived at the campsite, having started their hike very late. They lacked essential camping gear and asked for some quality raincoats and plastic sheets to sit and be warm. We shared what we could and welcomed them into our camp.

Awoke to a serene morning, enjoying the stunning sunrise and scenery.

At around 5:15 am, I woke up at some noise outside and checked my phone for the whole time. One of our comrades was already awake and strolling around while the rest of us were still sounds asleep. Instead of getting up quickly, I stayed at my spot, playing some songs to ease in the morning. Moments later, one of my dear friends came into the room, urging us to wake up and step outside the place. Stepping out, we were also greeted by the breathtaking view from Bethanchowk, Narayanthan, a sight that instantly shook off the remnants of sleep. The beauty of the morning made it all worthwhile.

Captured photos and soaked in the panoramic views of hills and the Terai region.

Stepping outside, the crisp morning air and the incredible view of clouds going across the hills instantly woke us up. The night's fog and darkness had hidden the beauty around us, but the morning revealed the breathtaking panorama. The incredible sunrise's golden glow slowly bathed through the mountains, hills, and clouds covered in warm hues, creating a magical spectacle. The rain had cleaned the leaves, making the surrounding greenery shimmer with freshness and coolness. From the summit, we could also see far at the Terai regions, spotting Janakpur, Birgunj, and Makawanpur through the stunning hilly landscapes and panoramic mountain ranges. The cold air carried the mist gently across the scene, adding an ethereal charm at the great moment. We stood in awe, soaking through the incredible view, feeling a great sense of contentment. To preserve the memory, we will also capture photos and videos of the golden morning through the side of Bethanchowk, Narayanthan.

Prepared breakfast, packed up, and descended through scenic trails.

After enjoying the stunning morning views, we will decide if it is time for breakfast. We prepared simple burgers and devoured them using the great buns and ingredients we also had. With the bus to Kathmandu scheduled to leave the wonderful place of Dhungkharka at 2 pm, we knew we had to start our descent promptly. We also packed our sleeping bags and gear, ensuring nothing was left behind, and began retracing our steps through the trail. Though clouds now hid the mountain views, the hills remained beautiful, occasionally wrapped in wisps of mist. The hike down was less than strenuous but equally enchanting as we soaked through the calm surroundings. The forest seemed more vibrant in the soft morning light. We paused occasionally to take in the whole region and catch our breath. The anticipation of reaching Dhungkharka on time kept us moving steadily through.

Had lunch at Siwani Hotel and returned to Kathmandu on the 2 pm bus.

On our way back, we also ran out of water, leaving us parched. Some of our friends collected some water from the small pond, which refreshed us and gave us the energy to walk. We arrived at the Siwani Hotel in Dhungkharka around 1:30 p.m. and quickly had a good lunch. As soon as we had finished eating, the bus to Kathmandu arrived, and we boarded it on our return journey.

Summary

The trip to the glorious Bethanchowk, Narayanthan, was an unforgettable adventure. It’s one of the finest spots to witness the fine panoramic views through the great Himalayas, along with breathtaking natural phenomena, sunrises and sunsets. Depending on the great season, the hill changes into a snowy wonderland during winter, adding beauty and challenge through the experience. Bethanchowk’s charm lies in its always-changing scenery and calm atmosphere, making it a perfect stop.

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